Luxury takes many forms. While the walls of this solid, two-storey villa all but groan under the weight of owner Armando Percuoco’s collection of fine art, you get the feeling that he is personally moved just as much by the ratio of tomato, bread and oil on the bruschetta as he is by the balance of oils on his favourite Judy Cassab canvas. This is a place informed by his diverse passions, and while he has stepped away from the stoves (the very capable David Wright is on the tools), the power of his personality is everywhere from the big, clean flavours of the menu (sage underlining fried brains on lentils, chilli enlivening sweet crab on buttery tagliatelle) to the courtly wit of the jacketed waiters. The art, the white jackets and the fine copper pots holding the soufflé-like baked torta mascarpone all come at a cost, of course, but for this crowd it’s all money well spent.
Gourmet Traveller’s star-ratings, which range from zero to three stars, reflect reviewers’ first-hand experiences. The best-rated restaurants form our national Top 100. Our wine ratings, from zero to three stars, are made by wine editor Max Allen on the strength of the quality of the restaurant’s wine list. View our rating key here.
