“You’re not going to finish that?” a waiter asks in mock horror about the fragment of fillo-framed custard with berries left on a diner’s plate. After being assured the dish was fabulous, he shrugs: “We’re a Greek restaurant, no one goes home hungry.” Elyros, from the team behind Carlton’s Epocha, is actually Cretan, hence some fancy labels from Crete on the wine list. Despite its home-spun hospitality and big heart, this handsome restaurant inside a former bank is polished – from its marble-topped tables to its savvy service. The four-course menu offers best value: there’s cured swordfish with sorrel and green tomato dressing, and slices of pork dressed with smoky vinaigrette. Lamb shoulder is surrounded by slow-cooked onions, tender beneath its crisp crust, kakavia delivers seafood in a tomato bisque. Favourites like taramasalata and fava dip are menu fixtures. Add a stylish mezze and wine bar with its own menu and everybody’s happy.
This review was made independently for the Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Guide. The guide’s reviewers visit unannounced and pay their way.
Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Guide
Wine: ★ ★
Gourmet Traveller’s star-ratings, which range from zero to three stars, reflect reviewers’ first-hand experiences. The best-rated restaurants form our national Top 100. Our wine ratings, from zero to three stars, are made by wine editor Max Allen on the strength of the quality of the restaurant’s wine list. View our rating key here.
