Out-of-towners seeking to grasp Melbourne’s dining DNA must have Embla on the itinerary. The always-humming, dark-toned wine bar – with its best-in-show service and drinks list spotlighting New and Old World lo-fi craftsmanship – captures the city’s talent for retaining relevance without succumbing to trends or flashy technique. Snacks from chef and co-owner Dave Verheul’s fire-powered kitchen keep wine as the lodestar, be it the addictive chicken-skin crisps seasoned with whipped anchovies, or the now-signature soured cucumbers flavoured with dill and feta. Ditto the larger plates and desserts: hand-rolled fregola tossed with vongole and pork sausage, say, and a sculptural millefeuille flavoured with the umami sweetness of barley koji, black walnuts and fig-leaf cream. Embla does some of its best work at night, with the flickering flames and mood switched to party, but the languidly paced three-course Sunday lunch is perfect for those chasing more serene, yet no less exciting, vibes.
Kristoffer Paulsen
