What led you to a career in wine?
My family had property on Mornington Peninsula. We planted a vineyard and I worked summers as a teenager. Then I spent time in a winery and thought this is cool. I studied Arts at uni and was working in hospitality. When I met my wife in my early 20s she said why don’t you study winemaking. I did and loved it.
What’s in your cellar?
Hunter shiraz. Its typically Australian and paradoxically ages so well given what a silly place it is to grow grapes in. Clonakilla shiraz viognier, I’m friends with Tim Kirk and a huge fan of his wines. Plus, Burgundy and Champagne, which have a higher consumption rate.
Is winemaking art or science?
It’s 2024 so we do have data and watch the tech specs tightly, but blending is a human effort. The old-world regions have had centuries of trial and error. In the new world we don’t have 600 years to achieve the same level of greatness so we need to apply science.
Most memorable wine?
In 1997 I tried my first magnum of Krug, I swear I can still taste it. I didn’t know wine could be so good. Then there was a 1978 La Tâche from Domaine de la Romanée-Conti and years ago I tried a 1927 Château d’Yquem Sauternes that I can still bring to mind.
Who are your heroes?
Eric Lebel, Krug’s former chef de caves is a total god when it comes to tasting Champagne. And former chef de cave at Dom Pérignon, Richard Geoffroy, for his next-level expertise.
Your tasting dos and don’ts?
Do drink from a Riedel riesling glass; don’t use a flute, they don’t have the surface area to capture aroma. Throw your flutes away.
The wine you are most proud of?
Étoile. There’s an element of fear when you make a blended wine – you’re really putting yourself out there. With Étoile we wanted a world-class expression of place. We are a French-owned company but that gives us license to be Australian. When Chandon started in 1986, the French told Tony [Jordan] to make sparkling that would be the best expression of Australian terroir.
A wine myth you’d like to bust?
That the old world is better. I’d like to get out from under the cultural cringe. We have the science, the experience, and we don’t have regulatory limits. A blind tasting is the great leveller, and our Australian wines stand up.
See more from Dan Buckle at chandon.com.au
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