Crab and pasta are a match made in culinary heaven. There’s the sea-salty sweetness of picked crab meat dotted through just-cooked pasta, with some binding agents to pull it together – a garlicky tomato sauce does wonders, as does a bianco-style sauce with lemon, chopped parsley and a touch of starchy pasta water. To make crab pasta like the Ligurians do, we turn to the dearly-missed restaurant Lucio’s most popular dish, the tagliolini alla granseola.