When a bowl of steaming mussels arrives at a sun-kissed table overlooking Adelaide Botanic Garden’s lake, conversation stops. Senses previously tickled by the sight of ducklings and floating art installations momentarily shift to the intoxicating aroma of lemon myrtle and finger lime. The medley of molluscs swim in a punchy native curry topped with chopped green chilli.
“Chef loves using herbs and plants from the Garden,” says the waiter. “As plants go, we’ve pretty much got everything here.” Tom Tilbury, visible in the open plan kitchen, certainly looks happy. After a brief stint at Aces in the city, he’s found his groove in Adelaide’s leafy green oasis.
There’s undeniable romance about the eatery’s foliage-packed location. Towering plane trees frame the stroll towards Botanic Lodge, nestled behind Restaurant Botanic, also run by Blanco Horner Hospitality.
The fine dining restaurant’s sibling is open daily for a more casual lunch. What was once a kiosk frequented by tourists and young families feels fresh after an impressive facelift. Floor-to-ceiling windows let nature into the bright, airy indoor dining space. Out with the tacky décor and Peters Ice Creams, in with hyper local share plates.
Highlights include Gazander oysters topped with a vibrant yin-yang of green rhubarb and stone parsley, smoky barbecued radishes, asparagus heads, carrot and zucchini. Crumbed herring, shredded iceberg lettuce, and mayo bookended by soldiers of bread (no crust) is also a fun snack with satisfying crunch.
Larger dishes span Greenslade Farm roast chook, grass-fed beef, and a whole barramundi, deboned and grilled over coals. Native karkalla delivers a tart hit between fleshy bites. Kangaroo loin is a tender showstopper, thanks to a bed of thick macadamia cream, kohlrabi oil, a hit of ginger, and roasted macadamia for texture.
The garden cameos in a Wattleseed Martini and paperbark smoked aperitivo, and a house-made non-alcoholic tonic made with a blend of botanicals from the nearby Garden of Health.
The wine list is similarly thoughtful and predominantly local. Adelaide Hills treasure Mordrelle Blanc de Blanc sits comfortably alongside French fizz, while local connections are evident in the form of boutique producers such as Scanlon, Acmé, and Gentle Folk.
It’s almost pitch perfect if it wasn’t for the section devoted to kiosk-style light lunches. But for now, the steak sandwich and spring vegetable quiche serve as a bridge between old and new.
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