That Minamishima only takes bookings by phone speaks volumes; it’s a restaurant that centres on the artisan. Securing a seat at the oak-topped bar or in the small dark-hued dining room via conversation not website sets a tone that’s further expressed through textural handmade ceramics, a finely tuned drinks list that includes sparkling Japanese chardonnay and wild-ferment sake, and service displaying exacting – but never intrusive – attention to detail. Chef Koichi Minamishima’s omakase is the ultimate expression, though. Arriving over a couple of perfectly paced hours, it’s all about impeccable ingredients, including imported Japanese seafood, subjected to masterful technique. Pristine calamari nigiri might surprise with yuzu kosho, subtle pops of lime juice and charcoal salt, while chopped otoro arrives wrap-style, topped with crunchy green sea grapes. Chawanmushi pulses with the sweet umami perfume of dried Hokkaido scallops and maitake mushrooms, while miso-cured King George whiting displays eye-widening depth of flavour. Expensive? Yes. Worth it? Absolutely.
