Pipis Kiosk includes an actual beachside takeaway kiosk in its toolbox, but once inside the name becomes more vibe than literal. Sure, the minimal fit-out – rattan, sandy colours and large windows framing the shorefront view – says beachy and casual, but the exceptional service and impeccable drinks list populated by talented small producers quickly indicate that Pipis doesn’t rest on its location laurels. The compact, single-page menu is predominantly focused on seafood at the height of its powers. A startling flavour bomb of plump Abrolhos scallops, barbecued then draped in salty, fatty lardo might precede a sublime Japanese omelette topped with swimmer crab and fresh herbs or John Dory perfectly grilled on the bone and cleverly teamed with cauliflower couscous and sweet-sour pickled grapes. The approach extends to dessert, too – perhaps a multi-layered honey cake covered in translucent persimmon slices – further emphasising Pipis’ seamless melding of the laid-back and the precise.
